Local Eats: Moonlight Cafe

When it comes to dining out, you can rely on your old standbys or you can try something new. Give your favorites a break from time to time and try one of our recommendations. You and your appetite may be pleasantly surprised by the results.

Overview: For the last 10 years, a terrific Italian restaurant has been in disguise as an unassuming barfront on Brookline Boulevard. Moonlight Cafe is Brookline's little taste of Little Italy, but it takes crossing through the dimly lit entrance bar area to get to the cozier dining room in the back, where good service and satisfying, homestyle cooking await.

Environment: Familiar and comfortable, if a little generic. Basically if you've been in the dining room of a bar and restaurant before, you'll know what you're in for decor-wise. The bar area is dark and fairly narrow, but the dining room is well-lit and could accommodate dining parties from one to 100. It's a little reception hall, a little pub-like, and very, very low key.

Wining: Don't waste your time on beer. The menu's wine list is geared toward delicious, yet inexpensive offerings, an affordable way to complement your meal with a taste of the vineyard. Order by glass, half carafe, or whole carafe, or select one of the full bottles, the most expensive being a Chianti priced at $28.

Dining: For a starter, go with stuffed hot banana peppers, perfectly spicy and a little sweet and enough for two to share, or go lighter with a salad featuring the house-made croutons. As for entrees, all of those traditional Italian meals that you usually pass up at lesser establishments because they are either generic or just plain poor quality are what sets Moonlight Cafe apart. Go ahead, order the ravioli. You'll love the homemade lumps of delicious dough and filling swimming in a deep scarlet sauce. Or go meaty and try one of the restaurant's specialty veal dishes, especially the delectably decadent veal piccata, accompanied by their "secret" lemon sauce. Be forewarned: Come hungry or come prepared to leave with extras, because the portions are generous.

Dessert: Changes, so consult your server when seated.

Service: Quick and efficient, if a little brisk.

Overall: It would be easy to pass Moonlight Cafe every day without making a visit, but don't miss out on some of the homestyle Italian cuisine that the South Hills has to offer. The setting is comfortable, the meals are satisfying and reasonably priced, and you'll probably leave with enough leftovers for lunch the next day.